ASSATEAGUE, CHINCOTEAGUE - HORSES OR PONIES?

Chincoteague Ponies. 1/1600 @ f5.6, ISO 400. Nikon D4S, 300mm 2.8 with 2x teleconvertor.

For a couple of years, I've had Assateague and Chincoteague on my photographic trip list and with a few days off I finally decided to make it a reality. But first, I was a little confused about the difference between the two locations.

I'll try and break it down. The whole island is Assateague and is located in both Virginia and Maryland. The Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge is on Assateague Island but located in Virginia. Assateague Island National Seashore is located in Maryland and is a U.S. National Park. 

Well, are they horses or ponies? Apparently they are referred to as Assateague Horses and Chincoteague Ponies, although they really are all ponies due to their size. At the Assateague National Seashore, the horses are free to roam while on the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge they are penned in and not free to roam Assateague Island. Confused?

It really doesn't matter because both locations should be on your trip list and I saw plenty of horses, or should I say ponies, in both locations as well as plenty of other wildlife and many great locations to photograph during a day and a half visit.

Assateague sunset. 1/10 @ f20, ISO 200. Nikon D4S, 14-24mm at 14mm.

I arrived at Assateague National Seashore around noon and spent the remainder of the day taking short hikes, scouting locations, and of course stalking horses. One thing I noticed after crossing the bridge to the island and before I arrived at the park entrance was how close the marsh was to Bayberry Drive and that in several spots there was room to pull over. I knew then that it would be a great place to photograph the sunset.

And it was at one of these spots that I took the photograph above. Setting my tripod low in order to emphasize the foreground I was drawn to the green plant life in the water as well as the interesting pattern created by the marsh itself. This all came together and It actually makes this a much better photo despite what turned out to be a mediocre sunset.

Assateague Horses. 1/2000 @ f5.6, ISO 400. Nikon D4S with a 300mm 2.8 and 2x teleconverter.

I spotted these horses while on the Life of the Marsh trail which is a short loop boardwalk trail located off of Bayside Drive. And it's a good thing it was short because initially I only had the 80-400mm lens with me when I first spotted them so I returned to my car and retrieved a 300mm lens and 2x teleconverter to get this shot.

I like the two pools of water in the foreground marsh which adds some depth and helps bring you into the frame. These horses and ponies spend a lot of time with their heads in the grass eating, so patience and timing are needed in order to catch even one of them looking up. 

Chincoteague sunrise. 1/640 @ f5.3, ISO 200. Nikon D4S, 80-400mm at 195mm.

Chincoteague is about one and a half hours drive from Assateague so it is possible to photograph them both in a single day, at least during this time of year. Or, as I found out if you "camp" in Walmart parking lots, spending half the night in Fruitland, Maryland, and half the night in Ocean City, Maryland, it is a much longer trip than it should be and because of that, I almost missed the sunrise. Next time I'm camping on the beach in the National Park or staying in a hotel on Chincoteague Island, both better alternatives.

One tip I read prior to the trip is that if you wanted to see the ponies on Chincoteague you should drive along Beach Road until you come to a section where marsh is on each side and there is ample room to pull over. Ponies will be to the right, but I found it to be a great spot to catch the sun rising over Swans Cove Pool on the left. This tip saved the day and my sunrise shots.

Swans Cove Pool, Chincoteague. 1/800 @ f5.6, ISO 400. Nikon D4S with a 300mm 2.8 and 2x teleconvertor.

After the sun cleared the horizon, I began to focus on the various birds that were gathering in the foreground. There was still some great warm light coming from behind the birds, so I just waited for them to take flight and used that strong backlight to ensure separation from the background.

Assateague Lighthouse. 1/340 @ f5.6, ISO 200, exposure compensation +0.7. Fujifilm X-Pro2 with a 35mm (50mm equivalent).

One thing I always consider after choosing a photo destination is how I will spend the middle of the day. It could be a nap, long lunch, exploring the visitor center, or scouting locations, but on Chincoteague, it was the Assateague Lighthouse that captured my attention.

Sometimes a scene just presents itself and as entered the small clearing following a very short hike, I was immediately struck by the geometric patterns of the buildings and tower, the contrast between the white trim and red body and the light and shadows created by the surrounding trees. I also knew that this would look great in black and white.

Assateague beach. 1/250 @ f2.8, ISO 200. Fujifilm X-Pro2 with a 35mm (50mm equivalent).

The other thing I did during the middle of the day was to explore the beaches, or more accurately, set up a chair and just enjoyed the sounds and smells of the ocean. You could probably spend most of the day photographing the sand dunes and the birds along the coast. I only took a few photos along the beach but liked the subtle texture and slight warmth of this image.

Do yourself a favor and visit Assateague Island, enjoy the beaches, wildlife, and the beautiful sunsets and sunrises, but I would suggest you do it during the off-season.

PHOTOGRAPHING SUNRISE IN BIG MEADOWS

1/15 @ f18, ISO 200. Nikon D4S, 24-70mm at 70mm.

This is the fourth time I've photographed "Big Meadows", located at mile marker 51 on Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park, and each time it produces something different from what I expected. This time I was expecting wildflowers; what I encountered was something more dead than alive.

In order to prevent the meadow from becoming a forest, the park mows a portion, leaves a portion fallow and then burns a portion. Apparently they burned a portion on April 5th, which became apparent as the sky began to light up the field; and also when I looked down at my pants. 

As I worked my way along some of the many paths located in the meadow, I passed many of those burned out spots and I knew that they would provide some interesting photographs, but the sun was rising quickly so I made my way further into the meadow searching for something to put in the foreground. The tree in the above photo caught my eye for two reasons; it was the tallest thing in that part of the meadow and it was the only thing that wasn't brown. I knew the white bark would give me separation from the background and then I moved around looking to place the sun in different parts of the frame. It didn't take long before the sun was up and it was time to move on.

1/15 @ f18, ISO 200. Nikon D4S, 14-24mm at 16mm.

Stripped of ground cover, the patches created by the prescribed burn provided a unique look at what the meadow floor looks like stripped of its cover and with the light low in the sky it created deep shadows which emphasized the roughness of the bare ground.

The other thing I noticed was a difference in color temperature between the warm yellow grass and the cool blue of the bare patches. So I decided to use that as one element to add depth to my photos. The other thing I did was include these little trees that seemed more like someone had just placed sticks in mud. It was just so different from the field of wildflowers I was expecting. Using a wide angle lens and getting close, it made these sticks appear more prominent in the scene and helps to draw you in.

1/20 @ f20, ISO 200. Nikon D4S, 14-24mm at 14mm.

I moved on to another bare patch where a stick on the ground caught my eye. I lowered my tripod in order to emphasize the foreground and then used that stick as an element to lead you into the scene. Again, I also relied on the various color temps to add depth and interest.

1/800 @ f7.1, ISO 200. Nikon D4S, 24-70mm at 62mm.

For the final shot, I switched back to a longer lens and used the trees as a graphic element in the foreground. I like how my attention switches between foreground and background. One moment I'm focused on the trees, the next I'm trying look through them. Those layers provide the depth that draws you into the frame.

I don't know what photos I expect to get at Big Meadows, but I know that I haven't made them yet. In fact even as I look at the photos above, I can't help thinking that I could have done more, embraced the scene and accepted it for what it was and forget that it was not what I expected. I will return and keep an open mind. 

ONE DAY PHOTOGRAPHING THE OREGON COAST

Haystack Rock. Nikon D4S, 14-24mm @ 15mm. 1/800 @ 3.5, ISO 200.

As soon as I found out I would be headed to Portland, Oregon, to photograph a ship's christening, I knew that if I could make it happen, I would be headed to the coast.

I've never been to Oregon and a chance to spend even one day on the coast taking photographs was something that I wasn't going to pass up. The only plan I had was to get to the coast before the sun came up and that I would start at Ecola State Park, about 80 miles from Portland and work my way south and see what I could.

Ecola Point Rock. Nikon D4S, 14-24mm @ 14mm. 1/60 @ f9, ISO 200.

The weather was great, something many locals told me was unusual, as I left for the coast and when I saw the first sign for Ecola State Park off Rte 101, I took it. The problem with arriving someplace entirely new while it's still dark, is you don't really have any reference as to where you are going or what you will see once the sun comes up. And with nine miles of coastline within the park, you have to take a chance. Also, while making my way down to what turned out to be a closed-off trail, I found myself about 30 feet from 15 or so grazing elk. That's kind of a surprise in the semi-darkness; for both of us. 

I spent around one hour at the state park, finally finding a path which led to a nice view of Ecola Point Rocks. Never made it all the way down to the beach, only because I was alone and did not want to take a chance with the unfamiliar terrain.

Ecola Point Rock. Fujifilm X-Pro2, 35mm (50mm equivalent), 1/40 @ f11, ISO 640.

After leaving Ecola in search for coffee and a bite to eat, I found myself at Cannon Beach which I explored a bit. But as I was leaving town I saw this giant sea stack to my right and almost drove off the road. It turned out to be Haystack Rock Marine Garden, so I did a u-turn and lucked out on some parking right across from an access point to the beach. 

After spending about an hour on Cannon Beach, I continued to head south stopping only to make a few photos from scenic overlooks and make mental notes of where I might explore on the way back. I made it as far as Tillamook, where I didn't take many photos but did enjoy some cheese at the Tillamook cheese factory.

Bird Rocks off of Chapman Point in Ecola State Park. Nikon D4S, 20-70mm @ 55mm. 1/18 @ f18, ISO 400.

On the way back North, I stopped at one of the locations I noted on the way down, Oswald West State Park. Prior to the trip to Oregon, I had noticed this park on the map and thought it would be a good option because there were some short hikes that looked interesting. 

I entered the park using the Short Sand Beach Trail and hiked on the Old Growth Forest Trail, Cedar Crossing Trail, and Sitka Spruce Trail, before arriving at Short Sand Beach via the South Beach Access Trail. And while this sounds like I did a lot of hiking, trust me it was only about one and a half miles total, out and back.

Short Sand Beack, Oswald West State Park. Fujifilm X-Pro2, 35mm (50mm equivalent), 1/680 @ f8, ISO 200, +1 exposure compensation.

Short Sand Beach is a popular surfing destination, so for the second time in three weeks, I found myself photographing surfers.

Besides the surfers and the beach, there is old growth forest to photograph at Oswald West State Park. In fact, I've been to where parts of Jurassic Park was filmed, and this location easily conjures up thoughts of dinosaurs and other bigger than life images.

Oswald State Park. Fujifilm X-Pro2, 35mm (50mm equivalent), 1/140 @ f5.6, ISO 200, -1 exposure compensation.

Overall, if you get the chance to visit the Oregon coast, do it, you won't be disappointed. If I had to do it again, I would probably start the day at Cannon Beach and the Haystack Rock Marine Sanctuary, spend the middle of the day hiking and exploring Oswald State Park, then end the day at Ecola State Park.